Mamoun's: A legendary lunch on a summer-ending afternoon in the Upper West.
As the first frozen day of fall settled in NYC today, I find myself recalling one of my last summer lunches. Though I wrote about it months ago, I’m sharing it now, driven by nostalgia. This place is a true NYC classic and a must-try if you ever find yourself near its original local or, like me, on the Upper West Side.
Away from the touristy streets of Bleecker, MacDougal, and West 3rd, away from the turmoil of Washington Square Park, and well beyond the long queues of NYU students looking for a budget-friendly lunch, there's an outpost of this iconic falafel spot, in the uncrowded, leafy, residential Upper West Side (UWS).
"This place is pretty well-known," says a woman to another passing by at Columbus Ave, between the 84th and 85th streets, just in front of Mamoun's entrance. Her comments are not a surprise. Almost everyone in NYC knows what Mamoun's is: the oldest falafel restaurant in town.
Back in the 1970s, the original Greenwich Village spot became the one and only place selling Middle Eastern cheap eats. They inaugurated their service next to Comedy Cellar and Caffe Reggio. And, because of the wildly popular neighborhood, it quickly turned out to be a go-to for comedians, actors, and musicians as well as tourists who wouldn't miss the so-recommended experience of having a falafel sandwich on thin stand-up tables and improvised seats or take them to Washington Square park.
Mamoun's original location isn't a coincidence. After approving the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, which abolished the post-World War II immigration quotas, a large group of Arab, Lebanese, and Syrian communities settled in NYC. Almost all settled in Manhattan's two villages, seeking a better life. Mamoun and Maria Carter were part of that group of immigrants. In 1969, they traveled from Syria to the city and decided to start a family business based on Mamoun's mother's favorite recipe for falafel.
Though everything started in a tiny apartment kitchen, they quickly became famous. Today, you can tell: in 53 years, they've opened locations in New Jersey, Atlanta, and New York, counting nine restaurants across the U.S. The last opening? Their location in the Upper West three years ago.
"You know what to get me, right?" a woman asks her partner as she settles their baby into the stroller and sits at one of the outdoor tables while he heads inside to place their order. The scene told me something: Mamoun has managed to insert itself not only into a must-try for tourists but also into New Yorkers' daily routines.
The experience of having a falafel sandwich here is a far cry from the one in the Greenwich location, which is often too crowded with almost no seats. Mamoun's on Columbus Ave is bigger and especially comfy since it has a proper terrace with six tables available, in addition to the stand-up ones inside. It's also quiet and less crowded. However, the two big screens for placing your order take away the nostalgia of having lunch at such a symbolic spot.
While the signature dishes here are the falafel, shawarma, and chicken kebab sandwiches, Mamoun's also serves these staples on a plate with salad or seasoned rice. You can even customize your plate or sandwich—but don't. You'll never discover the perfect combinations on your own.
After waiting for my turn, below the huge mural photo of Mamoun Carter on one of the walls, I decided to go for their famous meal: the falafel sandwich. These deep-fried and smashed balls made of chickpeas mixed with onions, parsley, garlic, and spices came served inside a pita with lettuce, tomatoes, more onions, and tahini sauce for $6.49.
The price is arguably the best part of this place. Finding a stout lunch for less than $7.00 in NYC isn't easy. Although the pita wasn't as crunchy and hot as I expected, the lettuce with the tomatoes was slipping all over the table, and it had too much garlic.
I'm from Chile, where Middle Eastern street food is practically nonexistent, and the few existing places get overshadowed by the countless empanada, barbecue, burger, and hotdog stands influenced by the U.S. and Europe. To be honest, I've only tasted falafel a handful of times, but I have to admit, this one was really good.
However, something else was missing in my lunch, and I quickly realized what it was. The pistachio baklava had caught my attention since I entered Mamoun's. There they were, glossy and sparkling, displayed in a showcase next to the cashier, yet I super-consciously ignored them for the sake of my healthy week.
But after finishing my sandwich, I gave into my sugar addiction. I went inside and asked for a tiny rectangular phyllo dough pastry dipped in honey and filled with crunchy smashed pistachios.
Unfortunately, they only sold two pieces for $3.49, so—tragically, and despite my best efforts—I was forced to eat both. This dessert ended up crowning my experience, which up until now had been just an "it was fine" lunch. This sensation has happened to me lately because of the many overhyped food spots in this city.
I wouldn't say Mamoun's is overhyped. The price and value of being a historic spot, coupled with the personal touch of a family-owned business, make it a go-to for anyone in the city. That's what happens when a family puts all its effort into running a business, and if done right, it can win over New Yorkers wherever it is installed. Mamoun's has certainly done it right.